Author Topic: Building a 6kw pure sine wave inverter using power jack boards part2 the guts..  (Read 34226 times)

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Offline mab

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Just a small observation CM on your DIY terminals - the pic you posted looked to have stainless nuts - stainless steel is a poor conductor (from memory, regular steel is about 5 times better) so you may want to avoid stainless in the final assembly.

Offline oztules

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I have no idea how this is wired to have this happen... unless the transformer is under load, there will be no effect from the ecore hanging on an open winding, as I assume you are energizing it from the 240v side.

Can you scribble a circuit showing exactly what you are doing?
It makes no sense at all. Once you have started the torroid running, it should use virtually no power.

...............oztules
Flinders Island...... Australia

Offline oztules

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Mab, I use stainless too. Usually 10 or 12mm bolts.

Whilst stainless is less conductive, it is also using a length of only 1/4 inch or so over a 100mm  ( 6x6x3.14) cross section.
The losses are so small as to be not worth bothering with,... never felt a warm terminal.. so I can't say I'm about to change.

In a marine environment.... even less so, however, copper bolts and washers would be better I suspect electrically..... but low strength.

The slightest loosening of the terminal will have a huge effect, far more so than materials used,..... and lug performance too.


.............oztules
Flinders Island...... Australia

Offline ClockmanFrance

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MarNet, here is my simple block diagram of the Primary test circuit.


Once the bulb is illuminated and the toroid has done its inrush, then close that switch and the bulb is bypassed, and then the AC meter will give a true reading.

Offline MarNet

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Thanks again
Seems like its a problem with the fuse...
I moved all thing on the different power line in the garage and its ok now.
I have played with this ecore around the transformer to make sure its not magnetic field interference and all.
Clockman i have got 1m of 50mmsq cable and i have done 3 turns in the ecore. Ecore snapped...  Its on resin now...
 Was nicer if this cable was 1mm slimmer... 
Probably if I'll get 1x50mmsq cable and not 2x25mmsq, the transformer looks much better but I'm not gonna spend another 70-90 euros for that now

Offline MarNet

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hi all
i got the connectors. everything is ready for the test
just a quick info
i seen here : http://www.fieldlines.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=148717.0;attach=9078;image
the on/off switch should be attached between pin 11 and 13 and internally connected to b+ right?
I`m a bit confused about that ....
thank you

Offline ClockmanFrance

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Just a switch between No 11 and No 13, once the circuit is joined the Inverter starts, disconnect Pin 11 from Pin 13 the Inverter stops.

I just use a latching BIG push switch.

Offline MarNet

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Ok, its working but there is a small problem. Its only 193-197v putput. Why is that?
Any idea?
Batteries 25.2v, transformer input 23-24vac, output 193-197vac
Thanks again

Offline MarNet

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i think that the low voltage shown in the multi meter its because of the noise.
If there will be an emi filter or a true RMS multimeter the read will be around 230v.
clockman/oztules can you check on your inverter the power before emi filter and after please?
thank you

Offline oztules

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sounds like too many turns on the primary or too little on the secondary.
Meter shows the actual voltage RMS before the filter if you have one or after. There is a 4uf cap to filter out the hash at the 240v terminals.

..............oztules
Flinders Island...... Australia

Offline MarNet

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I was afraid of this..
Thank you oztules

Offline MarNet

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Hi
I think that my control board is compromised. An imperfect contact burned a fuse or something else...
The 5v voltage regulator is hot, etc...
I ordered another one.
I fixed the power by taking off 3 turns in primary coil.
One thing, my fan have a S (i think is signal) output. Do i need a 2.2k resistor? Its only 2 wires right now...
Thanks

Offline MarNet

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Hi all
The new control board was delivered today. I paid 90 euros including vat and duty-free
For some reason, the board is on bits. It's just ridiculous.
I have to speak with the PJ supplier tonight...
By the way, regarding the fan, any ideas?
Thank you

Offline ClockmanFrance

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Could have sworn I have posted about the Fan required by the PJ control board.............

Anyways....... see       http://www.anotherpower.com/board/index.php/topic,1117.msg11359.html?PHPSESSID=h7jd5l4edljl6k4ls18pgfj4i1#msg11359      for the connections.

The fan motor has 4 coils, these are pulsed by the Hall effect chip, so this is what I did.

The yellow lead was just connected to nothing, so the resistor is now connected to that lead end and the other end of the resistor is connected to a coil end terminal. And hey presto a pulse.

Offline ClockmanFrance

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The fan reassembled.

I use a warm soldering iron to mould and move the plastic so the resistor sits neatly with no strain.

The fan needs its plastic for its strength and integrity.