Ok, now I'm not gonna tell people how to suck eggs. I assume anyone contemplating this can build their own baseplate and mount the alternator and motor in it, so we'll take that as read.
Now all we need to do is put the circuit from Part 1 into a box and connect it to the alternator.
I had a small plastic box from another project, so I used that. I placed an amp meter into it, a 5k potentiometer and the small circuit board holding the parts from part 1
Here we can see the stuff in the box. Meter, pot, and a heatsink on the power transistor, and a heap of silicon goo on the circuit board. One reason for the goo is waterproofing, but more importantly , is as vibration protection. This will stop the power transistor moving at a rate greater than the circuit board and heat sink, and fatiguing the legs.
In this one we can see the 1k5 resistor in series with the pot. This is the set value, so when the pot is short circuit to ground, there will still be 1k5 in series with ground on the voltage divider. If we leave this out, then at full power (pot short to ground), the divider point will never get to 7v5 for the zener to conduct, and it output full power at whatever EMF would be dictated by the rpm. It it comes off load in that condition, we nay see hundreds of volts without the battery load, and no voltage control due to the rotor being driven full on. The 1k5 will hold it at around 14.5 (ish) for set and forget after the initial drag has been overcome.
Next I just used a pieces of rubber sheet (knocked off from junk ) to become the back, and a vibration suppressor. It is screwed straight into the plastic box from the rear
.
So now it looks like this:
The regulator control cable is fed back through the rubber and goes to the alternator. I used power cable from an appliance (form the tip) and it's colours are blue, brown and green/yellow.
I used the brown for the B+, the blue for the B- and green/yellow for the regulator control voltage. So the red goes to b+ on the back of the alt, the blue goes to ground on the alt, and the green/yellow to any our of our two spade terminals sticking out the back of the alternator.
A separate red wire goes from the b+ straight to the other terminal attached to the brushes.
Here the blue is grounded as is the negative take off to the battery, the brown to b+ terminal, The input to the amp meter for power out is on the b+ as well
Only the green to attach to the second brush terminal, and we are wired up.
The output wire from the amp meter goes to a stud on the rubber and then off to the battery...... and were done.
We now have one fully controllable generator set.
...................oztules
Notes and other waffle:
1. A fuse in line with the battery leads will protect both the alt and the controller. If the battery is reverse connected, the very high surge ratings of the diodes will blow the fuse before diode damage if it is sized reasonably close to max output.
2. The blue, brown and green/y wires in the pics are connected to the circuit board as brown=b+ blue is batt- and green is output from the control circuit.
3. The alternator in this final part is not the one in the first section.... it will go on another motor as a 24v unit. The voltage divider will be altered to different values and we will test it over a few hours of running to see if the 12v rotor qill be ok..... I'm sure it will, but seeing is believing.
Questions, comments and corrections welcome as always.