A few notables on this 24v 15kw inverter.
First, to be clear, there's no way this will ever do anything close to 15kw. This one is even chincier than the last one I bought. Of course I did not expect any better but thought it ought to be said.
Stainless steel case is a nice touch but unimportant to me. I would have been fine with painted black like before.
There is only one pair of battery terminals instead of two sets. All things considered, probably an improvement.
The L2 lead coming out of the transformer is very small. Appears to be just one strand of 12ga. I haven't yet peeled back the sleeve to see for certain. 230v loading may be a problem. The center tap is at least two strands.
Fuses in parallel. Whose bright idea was that? It doesn't "double the rating" if that's what they think. Actually makes the fuses useless for anything but a dead short of the load. I use external output breakers anyway, and usually just bypass the fuses.
A new mosfet used in this model I haven't seen before. NCE60H15a Rated to 150a. No idea whether good or bad.
The mosfets used in the 48v models are rated to 180a. Lower voltage for the same Kw means higher amps, right? I would assume a 24v model should have higher amp rated mosfets. Am I wrong? Between that and small wire sizes it is apparent powerjack doesn't expect this inverter to handle too much load for any length of time.
When I start pulling 4kw from a water heater I guess I'll find out.
The last Upower inverter I got had solid heatsinks on the mainboard. No fins. It takes a strong fan to keep it cool. This unit does have fins so I expect better heat transfer there. Guess they learned something.
They are still doing screwy wiring, but not as bad as the last time. The L1 transformer output to the control board is connected to the neutral terminal. The neutral/center tap transformer output to the control board is connected to the L1 terminal and has the hall sensor on it (It used to be on the L1 lead). I changed it around on my previous unit but don't care enough to mess with it on this one. The output voltages measured at the output terminal are correct so it doesn't really make much difference, but why would they do it that way?
Last point of interest;
There is a ten switch pack on the control board.
What are they for? Do they need to be changed if you change the voltage jumpers? This is something we really need some info on. We need a switch position chart! Oztules could probably figure them out in 5 minutes. Wish I was half as smart.