Product Information > Product Support
Beier 318L 12/24v DC Chest Fridge/Freezer - Not Cooling
noneyabussiness:
Lpg has a larger molecule, so generally doesn't leak as quickly...
Also LPG is not hydroscopic like r134a so water is not as much a big deal... look up r600, similar specs... ive got a small car with a leaky compressor seal, bout 500 odd bucks to replace it, so i bought a $22 lpg tank and i top it up once a month, been like that for about a year and still have at least a half full tank, lol used it to actually cook a couple of times too... its a 5 min job so not a huge deal, the wife usually reminds me because the air con starts getting " warm " ..
Do have you access to a vacuum pump and gauge?? A good way to check for a leak is vacuum it down to -30 ish and seal it... leave it for a few hours with gauge still attached.. if the pressure slowly drifts back to 0 then there is a leak..
Wolvenar:
LPG is EXACTLY OPPOSITE OF LARGER!
LPG, IE propane is a much smaller molecule.
Among other problems I'll get to later..
If you have a leak with r134a, its going to be MUCH worse with propane
R-134a Tetrafluoroethane, molecular mass 102.03
R-290 Propane, molecular mass 44.097
Sourced here
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/refrigerants-d_902.html
Also, your line pressures, head pressure, and head temperatures are going to be much higher.
The higher pressures alone can cause things to get worse since system was not designed for it,
Also when the compressor was not designed for it, or the system was not designed for it, the head temperatures will destroy the pump.
Now if that was not enough, since it was not designed for this, the evap to condenser ratio may cause other immediate troubles because of the boiling and liquid temperature points plus the difference in how much heat energy each can carry. The two refrigerants have a lot of differences.
Theoretically... (Now I cannot legally tell you to do this) there are propane-butane mixes.
Some sold as HC-12a that can normally work as a replacement as long as you find and fix the problem. It should be 100% compatible with any oil.
Though like I alluded to, many countries restrict this stuff/modification to the extreme!
However, HC-12a can work better, and be more efficient. Just it introduces a fire risk.
So, in this case, if it was designed for r134a, and you can still get it, replace it with the same.
Further interesting read. https://www.vasa.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Oct2012vasa_HCwhite_paper.pdf
Most sealed systems like this won't have a UV tracer from the factory, so adding that may help find the problem.
Keep in mind if you add a tracer UV dye with oil, it takes up space the freon would have.
This will reduce cooling capacity slightly and reduce efficiency once you add more of anything not freon past the original design spec.
But, if it helps to repair the problem, so be it.
To draw down and recharge a system without having to solder you can buy a piercing valve
https://www.amazon.com/Supco-BPV31-Bullet-Piercing-Valve/dp/B00DM8J3MI
It's not the absolute best option of course but it tends to get the job done much easier.
Best of luck.
Wolvenar:
--- Quote from: noneyabussiness on July 16, 2020, 04:09:06 pm ---
Do have you access to a vacuum pump and gauge?? A good way to check for a leak is vacuum it down to -30 ish and seal it... leave it for a few hours with gauge still attached.. if the pressure slowly drifts back to 0 then there is a leak..
--- End quote ---
For future reference though it doesn't apply here..
While this generally works, especially in a fully sealed pump with no mechanical parts outside of the sealed system, it doesn't always hold up.
Automotive and similar designed pumps have shaft seals that can work while the shaft not turning but not when in use,
This is generally because any bearing wear may cause the shaft to vibrate around and a hardened seal can leak when moving, but not leak otherwise.
Also, the shaft seal design is designed to hold higher pressures, at approx a single atmosphere of a vacuum you may not always get a leak.
noneyabussiness:
https://www.es-refrigerants.com/resources/docs/PERFORMANCE%20AND%20SAFETY%20OF%20LPG%20REFRIGERANTS.pdf
i stand corrected re molecule size... i was told by a trusted friend otherwise ???
--- Quote from: Wolvenar on July 16, 2020, 11:56:36 pm ---
--- Quote from: noneyabussiness on July 16, 2020, 04:09:06 pm ---
Do have you access to a vacuum pump and gauge?? A good way to check for a leak is vacuum it down to -30 ish and seal it... leave it for a few hours with gauge still attached.. if the pressure slowly drifts back to 0 then there is a leak..
--- End quote ---
For future reference though it doesn't apply here..
While this generally works, especially in a fully sealed pump with no mechanical parts outside of the sealed system, it doesn't always hold up.
Automotive and similar designed pumps have shaft seals that can work while the shaft not turning but not when in use,
This is generally because any bearing wear may cause the shaft to vibrate around and a hardened seal can leak when moving, but not leak otherwise.
Also, the shaft seal design is designed to hold higher pressures, at approx a single atmosphere of a vacuum you may not always get a leak.
--- End quote ---
what is actually funny with the situation i described, its completely different to your description of the shaft seal. if we use the car everyday, the system stays charged for almost the entire month, however if the car is parked for more than 4-5 days it needs to be recharged before it will work again. Also i have found it runs at a LOWER head pressure than the original r134a ... go figure
anyhoo... back to the world of dreams...
RFburns:
Maybe something in this post may help https://www.anotherpower.com/board/index.php?topic=1373.0
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