Renewable Energy Questions/Discussion > Automation, Controls, Inverters, MPPT, etc

Just bought a powerjack 15000, modding.

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welshman:
it didn't last long Pete. They were in fact fake hy3810's which was evident after they blew. they ran very hot even at idle.

they lasted 24hrs total and blew up.

here is a comparison of the genuine vs fake hy3810's. the fakes are quite easy to spot now i know what im looking for.

i have now switched over to hy4008 anyway.

Wolvenar:
I went through nearly the same about a year ago with a motor control.
Fakes are EVERYWHERE anymore. I wound up biting the bullet and paying premium cost from Digikey.
I live nearby so I just nabbed them on a trip past Thief River Falls (Minnesota) so I saved the shipping at least.

welshman:

--- Quote from: Wolvenar on October 02, 2020, 02:39:55 am ---I went through nearly the same about a year ago with a motor control.
Fakes are EVERYWHERE anymore. I wound up biting the bullet and paying premium cost from Digikey.
I live nearby so I just nabbed them on a trip past Thief River Falls (Minnesota) so I saved the shipping at least.

--- End quote ---

both these was the genuine seller https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-OEM-HY4008P-HY4008-80V200A-TO-220-MOS-Replace-IRFB3207ZPBF-RU190N08Q/123506575104
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50PCS-X-HY-HY4008B-TO-263-2-N-CH-MOSFET/333533302689

just to update the status. got some genuine hy4008's from an ebay chinese seller. bought 60 hy4008p and 50 hy4008b's for the backup. they should last me through a few years. have experienced 3 blowouts on resuming from grid/charge to inverter mode, twice with genuine mosfets hy3108's and once with fakes that lasted only a day. 3 lf driver boards have blown and nothing on the control boards or the mosfet boards has been damaged apart from the smd resistors on the mosfet daughter boards. all 3 driver boards have been repaired and confirmed working with only replacing two pairs of MY and NY chips.

everything is up and runnign again, but now using hy4008p's instead, left everything else electronically the same, currently powering it down before finishing charge from generator until backup unit has been built. which im just waiting on one crucial part so i can finally assemble all the bits ive made and amassed for it.

once the backup is up and running ill be resuming with taking my chances. it lasted several years with multiple daily charge/inverter changes without powering down. i blame the relay on the board due to the condition it is in and taking so long for the first set of mosfets to die. the relay is rated at 30 amps, so it's already under spec. i initially changed it for a solid state relay as i discussed in the other thread , but it failed to work as expected and i've not investigated it yet. i switched it for a good quality 50 amp relay that has a clear casing so i can keep an eye on the contacts. i might be barking up the wrong tree here with the relay being the possible problem. time will tell.

just ordered a set of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E8020-E80-Ferroxcube-3C90-E-EE-Ferrite-Cores-transformer-AL-5000-1set/370683164776

solarnewbee:
Hi welsh!

I bought some of those cores some time ago from an electric supply company along with the plastic winding cores so I could use thicker copper with thinner insulation without fear of cutting insulation. What a dramatic change In idle and running efficiency. Shortly after I replaced that 24v 15kw with a 48v 15kw made the same mod and shipped it out to Philippines. That will be a FaceTime install. Just did a switch to Lifepo4 in our 5 person e-bike tricycle over FaceTime. My daughter learned a lot about battery terminal and arranging them so it should go well. I also removed the steel plate and rubber from the top of the coil and attached the fan with standoffs to blow cooling inside coil. This version comes with a fan installed above the coil.  I couldn’t  put rubber blocks under coil like suggested by Doc and ship it safely so later when I travel next year I will make the change.  Also in stalled a 4 fan pwm fan control with one temp sensor on the coil and the other on the heatsink that warms up the most.

Keep up the good work guys. Best of luck and Best Regards!

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