My Taylor Dunn Transporter project revived...

[tomw]

Repost of an FL Diary on September 13, 2010.....

I probably should have left this at the store.

I didn't.



Its got at least a set of toast batteries. No worries there I got a bunch of tired Trojan 105s for it..

Its got a junk controller but I can probably fix that with some ingenuity.

The seat is trashed but I got an old riding mower with a half decent seat so that will go on it if it actually runs.

It is 24 volt just like my RE system.

The tires are holding air anyway. The brake works.


















Well I guess I needed another  project.NOT!

If anyone knows about reburbing these things I would love feedback.

It is only 28.5" wide so it will actually fit thru every door on the place which is neat.

First on my list is a motor test. It all turns easy and free.

I will block up the rear and apply some 24 VDC see if it rolls things. If so I figure the rest is just control of the volts.

Maybe just pop 4 T-105's in it and hotwire it to just go ?


Added for this AnotherPower post:


I am not very sure how to go ahead with this. The motor turns but I am not sure if the field windings are designed for full voltage or need a resistance to limit current?

With A1, A2, S1 and S2 all connected the motor turns slowly but seems to really use a lot of current even with just a 12 volt battery.


Tom

[oztules]

Provided the brushes and commutator are fair, I expect the motor to be fine.

Are you running the field as a shunt? This would explain the slow high current performance.... I think it is series wound.

I think you will do better to run the battery to in S1... out S2 bridge to A1 and out of A2 to the battery (series connection)

Generally you change direction by changing S1 and S2 in relation to A1,A2.

Speed control appears to be resistor/s and very big multi tap switch. F/R will be by field relation change.


Looks a nice little project. If the speed control switch is ok, it may be  worth staying with just for fun.

If your going through doors, then perhaps a pwm  a curtis controller  or similar for finer control. I also used to build speed controllers for those types of traction motors , but they are cheap now days.

Something like this will work it, but a bit under powered http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Curtis-PMC-Multimode-DC-Motor-Controller-Model-1235-2403-24-V-100-Amp-/190668559107?pt=BI_Control_Systems_PLCs&hash=item2c64bb5303 but dirt cheap to test with.

I would like to see it with this type though http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Club-Car-Curtis-1204-Speed-Controller-36V-275A-G432H-FOR-REPAIR-ONLY-FOR-REPAIR-/290700137661?hash=item43af1414bd

The 1204 is generally 24/36v .....If you contact that bloke, he will be able to help you if you have no other easy way to get hold of decent controllers at a reasonable price. I have found him very good from here. (With a few mods, they make very robust solar pump controllers)

Keep posting on this project..... ev's are fun



.................oztules

[tomw]

Oz;

Yep, I dug up a schematic online and it is definitely series wound. The original mechanical control is junk. I am going to just use a 60 amp DPDT knife switch as a forward / reverse switch, run it on 12 volts as go or not go to get a feel for if it will work and then I can think about more conventional control. Maybe run it at 24 volts through one of the resistors with an SPST knife switch jumping it for go and go faster control. Originally it was 3 speeds using 3 resistors and a big mechanical wiper "control".

Thanks for the links and info.

Tom

[oztules]

"I am going to just use a 60 amp DPDT knife switch as a forward / reverse switch, run it on 12 volts as go or not go to get a feel for if it will work and then I can think about more conventional control."

Be very wary of this Tom. Remembering that current is torque, and voltage is speed in this setup. 12v high current will try to rip the gearbox out of the unit to get it up to 12v speed in the blink of an eye. It may be a bit rough on the operator as well.(neck)

My advise is to use one of the resistors in series to limit the current while you do this test....(soft start).... to avoid the massive acceleration that is possible if your 12v battery has plenty of cranking current available.

Look forward to the report on the motor's condition and the "track test report" .



................oztules

[Isaiah]

Tom
Do you need a charger for this project?
I have most every thing off a cub cadet electric riding lawn mower I think it was 24 volt and the on board charger and direction control switch is there. if interested i can get some pictures.
Also I have a four wheel truck that the electrical looks very much like what you have there that need a new home.
 It needed battery's when I got it .
I hooked up several car battery's and it did run  but needs work  it has hydraulic breaks that are down and bad tires .it dose have a tilting flat bed on the back of it, over the battery compartment.
I also have a three wheel scooter about the size of yours  but it has a K91 Kohler engine on it and some form of transmission.
I never could find a name on it so I may see if I can get a picture up and maybe  some one here can Identify it.
I am thinking of getting this running again for myself.
There is a Antique Tractor and Gas engine show here in Jones the first full week end in May,You could bring a load and we could do some trading.
A lot of different stuff shows up at these swap meets.
 Isaiah

[Isaiah]

I have the  scooter out and had it running it needs some minor things,
throttle cable and a fuse holder etc . But I Will try to get a picture up  in a day or so if it doesn't rain too much here.
 Isaiah

[Isaiah]

 i'm attempting to post some pictures of the scooter.
 The scooter has a k 91 Kohler motor