Building a 6kw pure sine wave inverter using power jack boards part2 the guts..

[oztules]

Yes Clockman, thats the idea...... make sure you use a second set of nuts for the final [product, so you can tighten very hard against the nuts rather than just the nylon.

They make excellent lugs....


.....You can tell I'm on an island in the middle of nowhere I guess....


Marnet....yes about 30v or 1/8th the primary turns.

EMI filter is good if you can get them cheaply..... I get them from the gird tie inverters, and parallel a few of the 3kw ones up.

If you don't use am radio, you may not bother at all

...............oztules

[MarNet]

Ok thank you
How about conformal coating
Is a good idea to seal the capacitors and all?
Thank you

[ClockmanFrance]

MarNet, see Oztules explanation on EMI filters,  Post 49 and 51.......

http://www.anotherpower.com/board/index.php/topic,1044.45.html?PHPSESSID=h7jd5l4edljl6k4ls18pgfj4i1

I have conformal coated mine, but cleaning of excess flux spatter and debris is a delicate job as the Control card has SMD devices both sides. So a little caution is advisable.....  I use these, the solvent brush is a little excessive.
I am just trying to protect the bare solder tracks and components that are also bare from French moisture.

[ClockmanFrance]

Thanks 'oztules' here is a section from the book on those insulated bolt terminals.......

"I use lock nuts to secure the insulators to the bracket, then the cable end eyes can be installed and tightened up with another nut on top so the nylon/plastic is not stressed.

 Or the 'Oztules' way, using nylon cable glands that the 10mm bolt can pass through, cut away the clamping/closing end and…….    Don’t forget the lock nuts."

[MarNet]

Thank yoy Clockman
I didn't see the post nr 59. Seems like there is only 58 posts.
I'll see if i can get any hf filters. Thank you

[ClockmanFrance]

Sorry, and post No 51.

[ClockmanFrance]

Its winter here and the OzInverter seems happy with its conformal coated PJ Boards. Voltage is very stable.

Perhaps I am being a little harsh with its mounting position.?

[MarNet]

Clockman you are a bit "brave" to leave it outside
There is the pictures with the 3x1.8mm secondary in epoxy and then wrapped up on Nomex foil and Kapton tape on the top. Ready for 2x25mmsq primary coil

[MarNet]

And there is 23 turns with 2x25mmsq cable

[MarNet]

And the test...
Saturday I'll get the connectors delivered so I'll have it mounted sometime next week or so

[MarNet]

Oztulez, do i really need that ecore on the primary?
My 2x25mmsq cables can only do 2 turns.
That ecore is only to keep the idle voltage down correct?
With the Ecore in and power from secondary,  the fuse blown off...

[oztules]

in a word... yes

The ecore will drop your idle current and at the same time take an enormous amount of heat out of the transformer due to the new efficiency.... other wise it will absord hundreds or watts for nothing but heat you don't want.

You must have a resistance in series before you use a torroid on the mains or it will blow fuses like they didn't exist.

What were your secondary turns, and the cross section of your steel core?
..............oztules

[ClockmanFrance]

Low idle/running current is one of the major reasons I fell in love with the 'oztules' OzInverter.

My first Inverter was a APC UPS 5000, and its idle current, was at 150 watt to 200 watt, so overnight my batteries lost nearly 2kw, arrgghh.

My Old, now returned to SMA, Sunny Island 6, had I think separate windings for getting the idle current down, as at night there seemed to be a battle happening at night time as the lights flickering on and off.

Here is a pic from the book regards the ecore.
 
That's 50mm/2, Tri-rated/multi strand/car battery/welding wire, it comes in different insulation thickness and can be easily shaped to fit the ecore.
 I can get 4 turns, but looking at the 60,000 words on the OzInverter it seems that several reports mention NO particular benefit of 4 turns, so 3 are best. The needle file is just to very lightly/gently remove the very sharp edges on the ecore, as they nip the insulation if you don't, see below pic.

[ClockmanFrance]

This may help.

The white glue lined heat shrink is my sleeve solder joints.

From the toroid winding, I use a sleeve joint to solder connect the 50mm/2 tri-rated/multi flexible/welder/car battery cable. It then does the ecore and then up to another solder joint where I break out into 3 smaller 18mm/2 tri-rated cables that join to the 3 holes on the PJ heat sink. 3 means a good connection. Flexible cables means very little stress on the PJ boards and mountings.

[MarNet]

Oztules there are 2 cables of 25mmsq and 23 turns.
I'm wondering if 2 turns are enough...
The secondary is 3x 1.8mm (2.6mmsq) and 180 turns
The steel is  40cmsq.
My question is why the fuse are blowing when i have the e-core connected to the cable
Without E-core the fuse won`t blow... I used the 180 turns of 3x1.8mm as primary and the 2x23 turns of 25mmsq as secondary. When i add the e-core, 2 turns on secondary the fuse blown, same e-core on primary 2 and 3 turns fuse blown. Was ok with e-core on primary with 4 turns in 230volts. I just don`t want to burn any board ....

Clockman, I'll have a look when I'll get to the computer....
The 25mmsq cable i got it free from a friend.  If i have to buy 11 meters of 50mmsq or 70mmsq will be 50-70 sterling pounds plus delivery...
i have got 1 meter of 50mmsq cable to make the ecore filter. I have to say this is G-flex cable and looks more flexible than the 22mmsq cable what i fight with ...