I have lots of those meters, and no failures in the last 2 years from them....
I fear Rossw may be correct, and wolv..... you need to only tension the nuts against each other.
I find they are made well enough, as the movement works well, and that only leaves the shunt.
Most cheapies don't solder to the rear output tabs, but at least these ones do.... not much more you could do no matter who builds them.
With the other cheapies I have bought they will always fail on the shunt to bolt internal interface, as they only screw them not solder. Once soldered, I can't see how they can fail unless you physically interfere with the solder joint somehow.....(Wolv???)
.............oztules