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Wooden prop treatment opinions

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tomw:
Hey, folks;

I will be getting a set of replacement blades for my crashed 12 footer from Chris. Fir was used and I am looking into options for finishing / sealing them and the tail which is birch plywood.

Originally I use supposed indoor / outdoor polyurethane. the "outdoor" designation is bull sheite because it all peeled off in a few months. I thought the raw grain look was nice but this time I want to go with white paint on the prop and tail. Mostly because I want to put a graphic on the tail and contrasting colors on the blade tips.

Any suggestions from experience for coatings? Preferably with names and part numbers or something specific.

Looking for actual experience and not something you "read".

It kind of has to be commonly available at hardware stores like Ace or TrueValue because we don't have many options here for places to shop for that kind of item. It is the curse of living in the sticks.

Thanks.

Tom

Wolvenar:
I realize your not wanting to got really spendy, but what is your $ range?

ChrisOlson:

--- Quote from: Wolvenar on June 04, 2012, 11:07:32 am ---I realize your not wanting to got really spendy, but what is your $ range?

--- End quote ---

Tom, I use a sandable grey primer that soaks into the wood and seals it.  It takes three days with one coat every day until it stops soaking in and starts to form a layer on the blade surface.  I got your blades done and they need two more coats of this oil-based primer yet:



I spray my blades with either DuPont Imron or PPG Shop Line acrylic urethane.  Either one is about $150/quart in Olympic White (PPG part #924260), and takes specialized equipment for application.  It is a two-part base coat/clear coat paint.  The blades will be sealed when you get them (except for the bolt holes you have to drill and silicon sealant works good there).  They can be painted with any good quality acrylic enamel or urethane, and I would use automotive paint, not hardware store paint.  You're not going to find hardware store paint with hardener in it, nor is the paint you get out of spray cans designed to be flexible or stand up to abrasives like good quality automotive paint.  Most canned spray paint is alkyde enamel and it's soft and chips or peels easily.

I've gone away from Imron, for the most part, because it's highly toxic and requires a contained air supply respirator during application to prevent breathing the vapor.  The PPG Shop Line paints are a lot easier to work with and you can apply coats within an hour of one another, wet sand the base coat the next day with 1200 grit and apply the clear coat.
--
Chris

Dave B.:

--- Quote from: tomw on June 04, 2012, 10:40:28 am ---Hey, folks;

I will be getting a set of replacement blades for my crashed 12 footer from Chris. Fir was used and I am looking into options for finishing / sealing them and the tail which is birch plywood.

Originally I use supposed indoor / outdoor polyurethane. the "outdoor" designation is bull sheite because it all peeled off in a few months. I thought the raw grain look was nice but this time I want to go with white paint on the prop and tail. Mostly because I want to put a graphic on the tail and contrasting colors on the blade tips.

Any suggestions from experience for coatings? Preferably with names and part numbers or something specific.

Looking for actual experience and not something you "read".

It kind of has to be commonly available at hardware stores like Ace or TrueValue because we don't have many options here for places to shop for that kind of item. It is the curse of living in the sticks.

Thanks.

Tom,

--- End quote ---

  I have used Rustoleum Gloss Enamel which has been on my blades for 7 years. Several light coats and I think the main reason this has worked so well is that I put a coat of good old Simonize hard paste car wax on them annually. The good stuff that takes elbow grease to buff up. I think Enamel is much more flexible / forgiving with the bending, flexing and temp changes your blades will endure, less likely to crack as with epoxies etc. Wild weather here in Western NY, 90 deg F +  to -20 deg F annually is typical. Just my opinion based on experience.  Dave B.

Dale S:
If you live anywhere near a west marine store they got lots of excellent paint meant to go on the bottom of wood boats, if that aint water protection I don't know what is, I used one of their two part polyurethanes and it is tough stuff, easy to apply with a roller and self leveling, I'd have to study on it some to remember the one I used, the things been up there for four years now with no paint issues.

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