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Oztules / Re: testing the egs002 inverter board
« Last post by oztules on Today at 12:11:54 AM »
thanks Steve.

Here is a mosaic of the control board for those interested.





Oztules / Re: testing the egs002 inverter board
« Last post by MadScientist267 on Today at 12:06:32 AM »
Very nice Oztules... Always good when a plan comes together ;)

Fixed a hiccup in the screenshot attachment, forum was throwing an error and putting it at the bottom instead. Shows up in the body now. - Steve
Oztules / Re: testing the egs002 inverter board
« Last post by oztules on Yesterday at 11:35:35 PM »
Here are my new control boards in gerber format, will add pdf soon... no one seems to have protel for the pcb to be read directly, but thats there too

Here is a screen shot, but a gerber reader on the gerber files will show it best obviously.


It has a good current control system that works for torroids of all sizes, and have driven the main board up to 80 amps@240v to start 5hp induction motor on the lathe.... probably over 20kw surge I would think, my clamp meter was not fast enough to register more than the 80 amps... the leading edge would be higher I would think.

So easily starts drop saws, big angle grinders instantly etc etc.... will do a proper start to finish on how to build this one, as it seems to have all the bugs out of it, and is running quite a few households here, even on outer islands.

If folks want to make their own or get them made I will put up the complete gerber file set... I got them  fabricated from PCBWAY in china. I think
 Clockman will offer them singly perhaps.


Fishing / Re: LEDs and night fishing
« Last post by Wolvenar on Yesterday at 11:22:10 PM »
I have several lures with LED lights in them. They do great for Bass and Northern Pike. These seem to work best right before dark after sunset, while there is still light. You can check ebay and the other normal outlets for chinese made cheap lures for this kind of fishing. There are of also the branded and super spendy ones that are really no better. Or make your own for use of course. Some areas ban this though for various reasons so best check first.

Gate drive for FET (unlike base drive in bipolar) only uses current when it's changed. In effect, you're charging a capacitor. You could (and should) replace that 100k with something of much lower value so it switches quickly. Opto may be slow, but 100k at the gate gives it a run for its money, you can bet on that  :o

Also, there's no reason to use a "solar panel" inside the confines of an optically controlled switch in the way you describe... The reason semiconductors are all encased in completely opaque material in whatever form it takes (typically an epoxy), isn't just for physical protection from the elements and structural support... it's because they are directly sensitive to light in and of themselves.
That's good to know.  And it is battery powered! 

I wish those ET modules were better as far as speed. They literally have a LED inside and a solar panel to create FET gate voltage. As such they are fairly slow speed and I wonder if they will burn up if placed on a Midnight diversion output.  I made some isolated FET switches with an opto isolator driving a 100K resistor for gate drive.  Used a 9V battery for gate power.  So little current the battery lasts its shelf life.
Solar (heating or electric) / Re: Passive solar air heater - for home
« Last post by lighthunter on Yesterday at 03:03:07 PM »
The heat exchanging isnt as difficult as building a combustion process (at least for wood) that burns very hot and clean. Clean burn is important otherwise heat xchanger will plug.  If i remember correct a company called "garn" uses a refractory ceramic tube to finish the hydrocarbon/oxygen reaction before water immersed flue in their owb. Probably the simpest design ive seen. I dont have so i cant verify. Many others use downdraft to get the combustion temps to 2500F, some of those can b a headache.
Oztules / Re: testing the egs002 inverter board
« Last post by ss1 on Yesterday at 03:02:24 PM »
This are AD files. I do not have time to test it. But it must work.
Hi all!,  just in case anyone has need.  I finally found an affordable DC rated relay capable of switching up to 400v safely.
I first found the relay on ebay for $38 usd but later noticed another supply has them for $20. Some places charge as much as $180.  Panasonic makes it. The contacts are chamber nclosed and gas filled with a permanent magnet to the side to extinguish the arc. Seems to work good for me. I wanted for remote control of array power in case of fire anyone can disable utility and solar from one location. Could also be used to switch or divert an array for power controlling.

The aaa bat is just for size reference. The relay coil is 24v and current measured by vdrop  4v on 100r with 24v on coil = .96w coil pd @24vdc.
Solar (heating or electric) / Re: Passive solar air heater - for home
« Last post by MadScientist267 on Yesterday at 02:35:52 PM »
Thing is, you're talking about taking it down to 40C... and condensation happens *during* cooling.

All comes down to the amount of water produced... which for wood, again, I can't say exactly what the dynamics are, but with propane, it's non trivial. However they're dealing with it, the only thing certain in my mind is that they *are* dealing with it hehe
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