Author Topic: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac  (Read 5853 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #30 on: August 25, 2012, 08:24:27 AM »
The pairs lined up to attach in series
ila_rendered
the pairs where the red jumper wires would
be connected (remember the pairs are connected
on the bottom)
ila_rendered
after the correct number of cells are hooked up
the jumper wires are flexible enough to put in
the container were the old cells used to be..........
ila_rendered
just to illustrate how much simpler it was
than trying to trace where the tabs would
go after the pairs were all bundled up.....
People....it is so simple to replace these
NiCad cells all that's needed is a little soldering
experience....
One person had asked if my cells all have tabs
that they could solder to.
"I've not had much luck trying to solder to NiCad
cells without the tin tabs", he remarked.
Now it doesn't take luck to solder directly to NiCads,
in my experience you need 3 things for sucess,
a clean surface for the solder to bond , a very light film
of flux with your finger tip, and enough heat to keep
the drop of solder hot enough as you put it in contact
with the NiCad's negative metal shell or the positive
metal tip.....all that's needed is that tiny drop of solder
transferring the heat to the metal surface without cooling
until it bonds which is instantly....leaving the soldering
tip in place any longer is unnecessary and damaging.
If you can do it and imediately put you finger tip
firmly without burning you have been sucessful.....the NiCad
Hasn't been damaged one little bit by the small amount
of heat.
Honestly!
Norm.




Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #31 on: August 25, 2012, 08:28:02 AM »
Oh by the way ....YES all my cells do have the metal tabs
to solder too ....I just mentioned this for people that have
tried to solder directly to a NiCad.....
Norm.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #32 on: August 26, 2012, 09:29:02 PM »
Here is something like I test the cells initially.
26 5/8 inch holes thru a 3x1/2 board (not quite a 2x4)
that's from a 12volt nominal voltage 2.6 amp/hr NiCad
or .1 amp/hr per hole so I figure that's not too bad.
The voltage was 13.83 to start. After drilling the 26
holes, the voltage was down to 11.93 almost nominal
voltage and I have PedGened it back up to 13.40 in about
20 minutes....so things are coming along faily well.....
.ila_rendered
Norm.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Charging NiCads safely with simple solar controller
« Reply #33 on: August 29, 2012, 03:57:25 PM »
So wanting my solar charger to stop charging, for example, a 18 cordless drill pack.
At a set voltage......
I figure the maximum voltage I want it to reach is 20.5 that would be a voltage
of 1.37 voltage per cell so in the morning about 9 or 10 I position the 3 in a series
Volkswagon panels toward the East and away from the sun enough that the charging
voltages reads 21 close enough.
Now the voltage should never go above that because as the sun travels west
the slant of the sun shining on the solar panels will produce less power.
Sounds simple enough ? Anyone see a flaw where it would overcharge the cell for
that day?
Norm.

Offline rossw

  • Senior Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 790
  • Karma: +27/-0
  • Grumpy-old-Unix-Admin
Re: Charging NiCads safely with simple solar controller
« Reply #34 on: August 29, 2012, 08:46:02 PM »
Anyone see a flaw where it would overcharge the cell for
that day?

You mean *apart* from the changes in cell output because of temperature, reflected light from unexpected sources (someone parking a car so it reflects on the panels, or bright white clouds etc), or the change in cell voltage due to reduction in output current, or the cat/dog/bear running past and knocking the panel over....

For $2 including shipping, something like http://tinyurl.com/cccqufe would let you set the upper voltage with confidence.
For a few dollars extra, something like http://tinyurl.com/9xvoo3u will also let you limit output current from 150-2000mA and have both boost and buck converters so it will operate from 5-30V in and give you 1.25 to 26 volts out... 

Offline MadScientist267

  • Impossible Condition Curator
  • Senior Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 1210
  • Karma: +22/-4
  • Rules? What rules?
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #35 on: August 29, 2012, 09:06:12 PM »
Just a quick note from my personal experiences with boost/buck modules. They're pretty inefficient. Somewhere in the range of 50% or so. Dissipate a lot of heat in the process. Not really of use on small panels, they soak up all the juice coming in just operating itself.

Buck converters are more small panel friendly, but below about 10W or so, and depending on voltage differential between input and output, there may or may not be anything to gain by using one. But, as Ross points out, regulation is a good idea, and a buck converter can definitely do it (with decent precision in most cases). Just be careful of thermal runaway if you're getting up to any serious charging currents. Its better to slightly undercharge than making them go thermal.

Steve
Wanted: Schrödinger's cat, dead and alive.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #36 on: September 05, 2012, 09:36:18 PM »
My son gave me an 18 volt cordless drill charger couple
of batteries borrowed the sensor taped it to one of Bruce's
18 volt NiCads the thing quick charges the battery when it reaches exactly
20.6 it gets pretty warm and drops to trickle charge....takes about 45 min.
half hour if it's not too low....perfect for my purposes !
Norm

Offline MadScientist267

  • Impossible Condition Curator
  • Senior Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 1210
  • Karma: +22/-4
  • Rules? What rules?
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #37 on: September 06, 2012, 09:17:13 PM »
That'll work then ;)

And the price is once again certainly right!

Rock on dude...

Steve
Wanted: Schrödinger's cat, dead and alive.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #38 on: October 09, 2012, 07:44:38 AM »
That'll work then ;)

And the price is once again certainly right!

Rock on dude...

Steve
Well the 18 volt charger is history hooked it up wrong,
I seem to have a penchant for hooking things up backwards.

So until I get the 19.2  charger adapted to suit my needs, I
am satisfied with charging up 12 volt configurations with pedal
power or solar.  of course these 2 methods are closely monitored.
Norm :)

Offline MadScientist267

  • Impossible Condition Curator
  • Senior Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 1210
  • Karma: +22/-4
  • Rules? What rules?
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #39 on: October 09, 2012, 09:22:40 AM »
You're not the only one Norm - I got a laptop that way once (ironically enough, just the charge circuit, the laptop itself still works)  :o

We all too easily forget about magic smoke... (see signature)  ;D

Steve
Wanted: Schrödinger's cat, dead and alive.

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #40 on: October 27, 2012, 04:12:50 PM »
Great news for me ...just discovered that my 10 amp. battery
charger does a great job on my 12volt configured NiCads .
like if they are down to 11 volts running thru the amp meter
section of my HF multi tester it'll read like .6 amps and when
it gets to a certain voltage the charger drops down to .04 amps
and the batteries are just barely warm not as hot as when on a
fast charger.

I've charged 4 sets of 12 volts and it works every time.

Norm.

Offline kurt

  • Senior Moderator
  • Jr. Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +5/-0
    • my ham radio blog
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #41 on: November 04, 2012, 02:38:09 PM »
thank you Norm for rebuilding my battery packs. they charge properly with my factory charger and all that. work perfectly. i really appreciate it cannot thank you enough
Climate is what you expect. Weather is what you get  Mark Twain

my ham radio blog

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #42 on: November 04, 2012, 04:25:50 PM »
Kurt,
You're quite welcome !
Glad to hear that they're alright.
Norm. :)

Offline WooferHound

  • Technowhiz
  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 617
  • Karma: +28/-3
  • Huntsville Alabama USA
    • My personal webpage
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #43 on: May 23, 2013, 06:26:58 PM »
Hey norm
Can you possibly help me with this battery pack ?

ila_rendered
----- W o o f e r h o u n d -----
My Renewable Energy Projects

Offline Norm

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 469
  • Karma: +23/-0
  • Today is the day you worried about yesterday.
Re: Replacing NiCad cells in cordless drill pac
« Reply #44 on: May 23, 2013, 07:25:15 PM »
Yeah looks a lot like the 14.4 and the 18v and 19.2.....inside probably
is similar but with only 6 cells  (6x1.2=7.2)take the top off and a pic
of the guts and we'll take it from there....should be a simple job.
Norm.