I used to use transparency and the kinsten board. This makes perfect boards... but getting a laser to print on transparency now days seems impossible to achieve with cheap lasers.....
So now use ink jet onto standard A4 paper, then light oil ( olive oil etc) which makes the paper transparent to uv, then expose to 20-30 mins of 15w desk flouro about 3cm away
The develop in NaOH about 5g/liter warm.
then I use copper sulphate and HCl as etchant.... ferric chloride is fine, but not available here easily on an island. Farmers use Cu SO4 and HCl in farming... so by the 25kg sack and 25l drum..
So Ideally, transparency and kinsten or A4paper and oil and kinsten for tracks.
Sodium Hydroxide (I have used washing powder too when desperate) to develop the pattern
Ferric chloride or nitric acid,, or hydrochloric and peroxide or hydrochloric acid and copper sulphate for etching.
If you can't get kinsten there are films you can get to heat adhere to the bare copper,(
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/15cmx2M-30cmx1M-PCB-Photosensitive-Dry-Film-For-Circuit-Production-Photoresist-/191811512786?var=&hash=item2ca8db69d2:m:mjCvSlyr8eesVSev8xw2Nkg ) and expose the same as the kinsten, but use negative pattern not positive.
It really does work well. Folks use a laminator, but I find excellent results if you use a heat gun, and heat the board from behind, and then press the film on with a rag, rather than a laminator.
It is thicker than kinsten, and needs sodium carbonate to develop ( or NaOH). It's definition is ample for most things, but not terribly fine stuff if using paper rather than transparency.... with transparency and a good printer, very fine work can be achieved. A4 paper and negative, seems to be less fine than positive artwork.
..............oztules
