Thanks so much lighthunter.
I always feel more comfortable when I have a schematic to look at. You have it drawn just the way I figured it to be. The L1 and L2 designation is what confused me and probably led to my frying my first transformer.
I see that you have it reversed too.
L1 should be the lower (in your drawing) connection because that's the one that is in line with Maint L and is also the leg that becomes connection P3 and is fused or breakered by the powerjack for output.
In 110v control board models Maint N is the Neutral lead connected thru P4, and output L2 (if split phase) comes direct from the toroids. If not split phase and just a 110v output then there is no L2. In split phase with 230v control boards, the Maint N is also P4 output but now becomes output L2 (230v leg) with neutral coming from the center tap of the toroids directly with no connection to the control board.
So, in my mind I had it "drawn" correctly but reversed the L1 and L2, thinking Maint N was L1 so my connections were wrong for the 115-230v transformer, and POOF! I should have just drawn it out myself instead of assuming I had it straight "because its so simple". Those "simple" and obvious ones are the very ones that get you, along with poor eyesight and old age. It did me.
So thanks, thanks, thanks. Seeing it in front of me cleared it up completely for me. Can't thank you enough. I'm very reassured now and just have to be patient until Tuesday when my new transformer is supposed to arrive.
Btw, I'm definitely not an expert in transformers, but doesn't that connection of primary to secondary make it an autotranformer?
Btw number 2; Since I don't (and never will) use the battery charge "feature" of the powerjack, and since the pj people seem to have no problem putting out an unfused 230v leg (I do!), I have re-purposed the second breaker into an output breaker for L2. I removed the extra wiring and now have no connections to the input terminals of the control board. I used the wire that originally went from the second breaker to the input terminal and connected it to P4 instead, then removed the original connection from P4 and cut it short and connected it to the other side of the second breaker, so its P4 to breaker, then breaker to L2 output connector.
You would have to do it differently with a 110v control board, with P4 being neutral instead of L2. Also completely disconnected that 110v input plug under the breakers. I wonder how many powerjacks have fried from people plugging 110v into the battery charging inputs? (Probably trips a house breaker somewhere rather than frying the pj, luckily for them)
While I'm on my soapbox about poor powerjack connecting policies, every powerjack I have looked at (4 so far) have the 110v output receptacle reversed polarity. That is the hot lead (L1) and neutral are reversed. This would be for the US - I have no idea what other countries use for standard. Yes, most things plugged in would not care and you would never know the difference, but some things would, and you could get a tingle or short to ground. Changing/correcting those connections showed me how chincy(cheap) that universal receptacle is so would never connect anything but a small load to it. Push-in connections are poor at best and these are low quality compared to most push-ins. Ok, I'm done bitching (for today