Have fun frwainscott.
Yes, I see that I can not obtain any of the LF15000w, PSW,control board or power board, 50HZ 48vdc 230vac, from any source. I have sent an email to PowerJack to see whats happening.
Bit stupid on my part, that I produce a small publication to help others build their own OzInverter, and the PJ mainboards we require are no longer available ?............
PJ board cleaning.......
" Cleaning and conformal coating PCB’s.
On all my PJ boards on the solder sides there seems very limited PCB coatings. For us here, we require a good PCB coating, as the OzInverter lives and is installed in an outside building, which has rain protection, but is likely to get damp and a moist air flow.
I only do the cleaning and coating once the Inverter has been tested, and then I test again to ensure the AC voltage output is the same as before.
It has already been mentioned that the PJ Control Board has delicate resistors….. “They are very high R, so very high impedance, and easy to change the ac by even dampness or dust..... bit scary really, but seems to work in practice, but they are in the order of megohms..... if there are any problems with any of the resistors in the staircase, then the AC output voltage will move....oztules”
The spray cans I use are normal Industry standard coatings for PCB’s. The can on the left is a cleaning solvent and stiff brush, the other can is the coating but it does spray a little thicker than I would like. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
On the PJ Boards, underside, solder side, I remove the debris with a hand bulb blower, (watchmakers) first, and excess flux and solder splashes with the solvent and brush. But I keep the boards held vertically so the solvent runs straight down under gravity and away. The flux should come off with isopropyl alcohol and use a tooth brush.
Do not use to much solvent we don’t what that solvent removing any insulating films or heat sink pastes.
Be very, very, careful with the PJ Control Board as there are SMD, surface mount devices, on the solder side as well.
The component side gets a good blow through and if any signs of excess flux or solder splashes then its dealt with on a very individual basis, using smaller soft new paint brushes and solvent and cotton swabs if necessary.
Do not dismantle the Power board heat sinks or sub boards unless you fully understand what you are doing. Just use a soft light brush and minimum solvent use on the FET boards that you can see, remember we just want debris and excess flux removed and the board sealed only.
After cleaning, I normally allow several hours of warm air drying in a dust free environment to ensure the boards are really dry.
When lacquering with the conformal coating, I ensure, where possible, all the PCB surface gets it. Allow at least an hour between coats, I do at least 3 coats.
Allow at least 24 hours to fully dry, then a re-test of the boards to ensure the AC output voltage is as before".
Frackers.... Double thickness would put that choke about the same thickness as the commercially obtainable as recommended by 'oztules'.
Mine are 27mm thick, with the centre wrap round column 44mm long and 20mm wide. Outside is 65mm x 65mm. It seems that 3 complete turns are optimal, I tried 4 but not much improvement on idle power use, but real flipping fiddle with 4.
